help 2289 mods ....
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:45 pm
help 2289 mods ....
i just got a 2289 so i decided to mod it . the 2289 is canadian so its fps is 495 . has anyone seen a bleed hole on the valve . because if its there im blind . what r some mods i can do to it . thanks .
- DoctorFrankengun
- Posts: 1657
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 1:58 pm
- Location: Cochrane, Ontario Canada
I am looking for another gun to mod (hopefully a 2289) When I find one I will post photos and discriptions of the mods that I make as I go.
There is a lot of info here already if you do a search so there won't be much that is new from me but I will try to make step by step instructions that are easy to understand.
There is a lot of info here already if you do a search so there won't be much that is new from me but I will try to make step by step instructions that are easy to understand.
Come and visit ..Doctor Frankenguns Airgun Forum..
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:45 pm
so when
so when i open the breach the bleed hole is right there or iis it on the valve . i heard its on the valve but i just dont see it . ill put some ceramic paint on the steam for a close seal .
last week I bought a old demo 2289 from canadientire because they don't have 2289s in stock. After I take the gun apart, I couldn't find the bleed hole. I noticed the gun uses a transfer adaptator of much smaller internal diameter, maybe 1/2 of normal one. I also noticed that one of the valve seal(which with the steel pin) is made with brass, not plastic one which we can find in most of 2289. If I remember well, the serial number indicated that the gun is made in 2000.
- papaburger
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 4:38 pm
- Location: Richmond, BC, Canada
How do you read the serial number ?ineedpal wrote:last week I bought a old demo 2289 from canadientire because they don't have 2289s in stock. After I take the gun apart, I couldn't find the bleed hole. I noticed the gun uses a transfer adaptator of much smaller internal diameter, maybe 1/2 of normal one. I also noticed that one of the valve seal(which with the steel pin) is made with brass, not plastic one which we can find in most of 2289. If I remember well, the serial number indicated that the gun is made in 2000.
The number on my 2289G is 505b10810 C
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:45 pm
ya i was thinking
i was thinking of sealing the transforport and drilling it out a bit more you know for better air flow . has anyone ever did this .
According to Crosman, it would be May, 2005. Does that sound right?papaburger wrote: How do you read the serial number ?
The number on my 2289G is 505b10810 C
http://www.crosman.com/site/date_manufactured_crosman
Crosman Products Dates of Manufacture
This page will help you ascertain when your Crosman gun was in production. In the year 1975 Crosman Corporation began to use a serial number system that can help you identify when your gun was made. Prior to 1975 our serial number system was limited only to warranty concerns.
In order to be more accurate, you can use the serial number as an indicator.
If your Crosman airgun was manufactured after July of 1975, the first three or four digits of the serial number indicate the month and year the gun was built. For example if the first three or four digits of the serial number were 1179 or N79 then your gun was manufactured in November of 1979.
If your gun was manufactured prior to July of 1975, you can use the chart below to ascertain the years of manufacture, but you will not be able to ascertain the exact date.
- airsmith282
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:30 am
- Location: North Bay Ontario Canada
crosman has been doing alot of really odd things for detuning the airguns,its very likely if you have a tiny holed transfer port or sleeve as they call it then you have a regular valve with no bleed hole if you have a larger hole sleeve then you could have valve with a bleed hole.. in some cases you can have both the small hole sleeve and the bleeder hole valve. so many combiantions.. its very hard to keep up with it all.....
the plastic piston is the biggest joke going and also contributes to lower power out put as well not only does it flex when you start getting the pumping going butthe cup will push it self further into its holder if you want to call it that but also creats a gap so the cup does not make the trip all the way to the tip of the valve with each stroke so this causes less air going into the valve so its not really a full compression stroke.. but just changing over to thte steel or brass or alumi piston you can gain alot of lost air back and put it in the valve.. better to be 3 cc short of air per stroke then to be 10 cc short or more, i use the cc in reguards to volume of air here.. any how this has been my 2 cents worth, have a great day guys
the plastic piston is the biggest joke going and also contributes to lower power out put as well not only does it flex when you start getting the pumping going butthe cup will push it self further into its holder if you want to call it that but also creats a gap so the cup does not make the trip all the way to the tip of the valve with each stroke so this causes less air going into the valve so its not really a full compression stroke.. but just changing over to thte steel or brass or alumi piston you can gain alot of lost air back and put it in the valve.. better to be 3 cc short of air per stroke then to be 10 cc short or more, i use the cc in reguards to volume of air here.. any how this has been my 2 cents worth, have a great day guys
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- Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:45 pm
where to get them
is there a way i can order a new pistion . eather a steel or brass one . or do i have to make one