Info I posted about my modded 2240 hope this helps others

[randyhub]

Well I would like to tell everyone how I built this wonderful, hard hitting, accurate piece. Well I first was introduced to the potential of the 2240 by a gentleman called Whitewolf. His level of expertise and ability made me crave all knowledge I could find on the 2240. I have always loved tinkering and built a shop stocked with the proper tools. So for a year I did nothing but build a database and chatted on forums learning the secrets of how to get performance out of the 2240. So I picked up a 2240 from CT and started working. So here is what I did.

1. Upgraded to a 14" barrel for compactness and crowned the barrel for accuracy.
2. Upgraded to a heavier 2289 hammer spring.
3. Ported the transfer port of the barrel.
4. Opened up the valve body port and expoxied a aluminum transfer tube for flow.
5. Cut threads from the valve body insert and drilled out to valve body.
6. Installed a lighter valve spring.
7. Upgraded to a 2 piece 2250 bolt and installed a lengthened bolt probe.
8. Cleaned up the valve port angle.
9. Installed a steel 2250 reciever.
10. Pinned the valve body to reciever tube.
11. Installed a illuminated 3X9 scope.
12. Installed a Cooper T bulk kit.
13. Use a coiled remote with CO2/HPA for way higher performance than bulbs.

Now for the other goodies. The stock is from EBay I bought for 10 dollars, it is a metal Airsoft MAC10 wire stock. The barrel shroud is thin walled aluminum with spacers expoxied in with JB Weld. I tapped a set screw to firmly lock it in place to the barrel. The stock, I simply took a scope rail mount and also tapped it. Then I also used JB Weld to attach the mounting rails to the reciever, I know sounds dumb but believe me if applied correctly this stuff is incredible. Then I drilled holes in the wire stock rails to attach the stock to the 2240. So I purposely did not want a sliding stock because I wanted to keep the gun at 26 inches for obvious reasons. The finish on the stock and shroud is believe or not CT trunk bed liner spray paint. This stuff is fantastic, drys with a really neat textured finish and is tough!!! At 25 yards with sandbags, I can get 5 shots under nickel, I think the HPA bulk makes all the difference, so I guess my 2240 is now a PCP?? As far a velocity I don't really know, but on HPA I can completely flatten a .22 pellet at 25 yards on a steel plate and really bury a pellet into a plank. For the most part I lower the power by using the stock 2240 hammer spring which I cut down, this drops the velocity down quite a lot which is how she stays in storage. The heavy 2289 spring is in my tool box. So there is my long story. I love using my 2240 Carbine for target shooting and field work, my wickedly modifed Drozd for a stress buster, and my .22 Webley Patriot for serious long range work.

Hope this helps, Randy

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b278/ ... folder.jpg

[Sethhoward]

Great work and good looking gun. Do you mind explaining a couple.

>>Opened up the valve body port and expoxied a aluminum transfer tube for flow<<

Epoxied the tube where? How did it help flow?

>> Ported the transfer port of the barrel <<

How much did you open it up?


Thanks,
Seth

[randyhub]

If you go to the Crosman Mod Forum, it tells all. But the trick is to use a Dremel and open up the hole in the bottom of the barrel, CAUTION too much and the pellet will jam. I made an oval hole matching the inside diameter of the aluminim tube I used to replace the stock restrictor for the transfer tube to the valve. Tried using poly but I noticed the inside diameter was smaller then a metal tube. So as I was confident I would not be tearing the gun down again I used a soft aluminum tube dremeled out the valve body to match the tube contour and then used JB Weld on both ends of the tube, one end to the barrel, one end to the valve body. Hence my choice to convert to bulk, this thing is loud and powerful with the 2289 hammer spring. So I did get what I wanted, a very light compact accurate air gun that because of bulk is cheap to shoot and consistant due to HPA characteristics. I can shoot for weeks using CO2 or HPA for like 4 dollars, the 12 g bulbs are expensive. With the quick detachable bulk remote hose feed and the hip slung tanks it is also very convient. Big thing here is the pressure gauge on the remote hose I can actually see when the CO2 pressure is getting low, therefore I get super consistancy with the bulk conversion.

Hope this helps.

[TCooper]

Hi Randy,

Hmmm... are you the famous old "shaggycanuck", also known as "Trevor" or "Randybugger" from past AirgunsCanada forum years?

Todd

[randyhub]

No I am just a newbie to this modding thing less than a year but I have been shooting airguns for 30 years, my first was a .177 Telly man could I shoot with that thing until the farmer noticed I shot out all his shed windows. I used to put a BB in the old Telly point it up like a mortar and try to hit the steel roof, well the ones that fell short broke windows!! Dad took it away after that then I saved up and bought a HW 35S, sold that like an idiot and now have a .22 Webley Patriot.

So I am just a guy with internet access learning about how airguns work.

Randy

[Sethhoward]

Kowing you were not planning to take the gun apart again explains it and why the epoxy confused me. I use the rubber tips used to protect bolt theads instead of poly tube. It is the same outside dia. but has a larger inside dia.

Thanks for answering.



Seth

[randyhub]

Good idea too!

[ABshooter]

Pics?

[randyhub]

Hello, what type of pics of the 2240 would you like?

[sniper]

Hi Randy,
You're a pro now on 2240 congratulations .....

[randyhub]

Well thanks Sniper, still learning and hope to learn as much as you know one day, as your guidnace and answers really helped me. Next project is an Hyper Velocity 2240 capable of a railgun velocities, still trying to figure out a way to carry the flux coils and fusion reactor on my hip!

Randy