Pellgunoil is 30W Non-Detergent motor oil (30W-ND). About 5 years ago we covered this topic on another airgun forum. The topic still comes up often. A kind airgunsmith name Russ Best has occasionally posted the facts about Pellgunoil. He worked as a machinist for a company that used "Pellgunoil" by the quart. The product is 30W-ND motor oil, manufactured by Lubrication Engineers in Fort Worth Texas. This company adds a red tint in their products. The exact product name is "Monolec GFS Engine Oil". Some people mistake pellgunoil for trannie fluid but it's not the same.
A few years ago I was e-mailing with Craig who ran "CO2une" business. This business specialized in modifying the QB-78 and Cr2240/50 airguns. Craig told me that he uses 30W-ND motor oil on his rifles.
Although "air tool oil" is likely fine on seals, it's not the thing for all airguns. My TAU-7 worked fine with Pellgunoil. I once tried two drops of air tool oil to a bulk fill and leakage started at the valve seal. I disassembled the pistol and cleaned out all the oil. I re-applied Pellgunoil and started adding 2 drops to every second bulk fill and everything worked fine again. Some airguns might like air tool oil but the TAU didn't.
The 30W-ND motor oil is about $2 per litre at Walmart but it's not packaged as conveniently as Pellgunoil.
HTH,
Todd
1377 problem
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killercrow
- Posts: 2374
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 5:20 pm
- Location: Spruce Grove AB
ok, i got me some crosman pellgun oil today. gonna do "another complete tear-down and clean the hell out of everything 
but hey, any of you guys able to recommend something to clean all the oil out of all the parts? is gas good enough? or should i use like a paint thinner or something? any pointers?
oh yeah! forgot, i got some metal polishing paste too, i have used it on aluminum and i can get it to a mirror finish, so it should work good on brass, not too sure about steel though... we'll see what happens!
but hey, any of you guys able to recommend something to clean all the oil out of all the parts? is gas good enough? or should i use like a paint thinner or something? any pointers? oh yeah! forgot, i got some metal polishing paste too, i have used it on aluminum and i can get it to a mirror finish, so it should work good on brass, not too sure about steel though... we'll see what happens!
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jezX
- Supporting Member 2013
- Posts: 1689
- Joined: Wed Sep 14, 2005 9:47 pm
- Location: 123 gun street Nova Scotia
NEVER!!!!!! Oil your cylinder every time you shoot???!?!?!?!? I wouldn't do that if I were you...
ok .... why !!!!!!!!!!!! (lol) . i'm not dumping a letter in it . just a bit . thats just if i havent used it for a while . i don't oil it every shot . but a drop before you use it is not a bad thing
. what is going to keep it lubed ? also most gets pushed back and rubbed off it will not hurt it. you should put some on it
i hope i know a little about guns... maybe not ...who knows , i could be a 10 year old girl . LOL
ok .... why !!!!!!!!!!!! (lol) . i'm not dumping a letter in it . just a bit . thats just if i havent used it for a while . i don't oil it every shot . but a drop before you use it is not a bad thing
. what is going to keep it lubed ? also most gets pushed back and rubbed off it will not hurt it. you should put some on it i hope i know a little about guns... maybe not ...who knows , i could be a 10 year old girl . LOL
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DoctorFrankengun
- Posts: 1657
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 1:58 pm
- Location: Cochrane, Ontario Canada
TCooper, I stand corrected on the composition of Pellgunoil. The stuff that I use is "Gunslick Gun Oil" and it is mineral oil.
Come and visit ..Doctor Frankenguns Airgun Forum..
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killercrow
- Posts: 2374
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 5:20 pm
- Location: Spruce Grove AB
alright, got all the bugs worked out... i think im tried out the pellgun oil, worked great! so good that my orings started slipping out of their grooves whenever half decent pressure was reached (about 15 pumps) i guess the grooves needed to be cut square, not round to fit the orings. i got it so they fit kinda loose, gives me a bit more pump headspace, but at least they dont slip anymore. it sucked, everytime id have a slip id have to take the piston out and roll the orings around a bit to make them seal again.
replaced the valve stem also... but with the old style brass type. you still can cut and grind them down smaller, i did. cut the back part half way off and rounded off the step a little. just not too sure how much material is there that i can work with...
we'll see
next project to take on is to see wether my barrel is TOO long or not. i have no idea if it is. ive heard that too long of a barrel in a pumper can actually tax power output. anyone know more about this? i figure if i could find out how much pressure the valve can hold, i can do some math involving valve volume, pressure, and barrel volume... does this make sense?
im tried out the pellgun oil, worked great! so good that my orings started slipping out of their grooves whenever half decent pressure was reached (about 15 pumps) i guess the grooves needed to be cut square, not round to fit the orings. i got it so they fit kinda loose, gives me a bit more pump headspace, but at least they dont slip anymore. it sucked, everytime id have a slip id have to take the piston out and roll the orings around a bit to make them seal again.replaced the valve stem also... but with the old style brass type. you still can cut and grind them down smaller, i did. cut the back part half way off and rounded off the step a little. just not too sure how much material is there that i can work with...
we'll see next project to take on is to see wether my barrel is TOO long or not. i have no idea if it is. ive heard that too long of a barrel in a pumper can actually tax power output. anyone know more about this? i figure if i could find out how much pressure the valve can hold, i can do some math involving valve volume, pressure, and barrel volume... does this make sense?