Oiling my Air Rifle?...... No Thankyou!.

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LarryS
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Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:42 am

Oiling my Air Rifle?...... No Thankyou!.

#1 Post by LarryS »

ER -Energy Release by Entech-
What is ENERGY RELEASE?

Antifriction METAL conditioner. Commonly known as ER, is the original and first TRUE Antifriction Metal Conditioner with over a decade of performance. ER is not an oil or lubricant, and works on an entirely differenct principal than other additives. ER is a heat activated chemical that uses oils and lubricants(air & pellets too) to carry itself to points of heat and friction. ER actually smooths the rough surface of metal itself, and produces unparalleled results. ER is a pure undiluted 100% active product.

How does ENERGY RELEASE ACTUALLY WORK?

ER treats the metal itself rather than the oil. ER contains a ferrous based ion that actually becomes a part of the molecular structure of any ferrous(iron containing) material. When activated by heat, the ion in Energy Release is LOOKING for a home and will modify the molecular structure of ferrous metals, So ER actually seals the rough pores and smoothes the asperities of the metal surface without changing any tolerances. This process dramatically reduces the coefficient of friction and wear between moving metal parts.

Product Clarification.

Energy Release is not a lubricant
Energy Release needs a minimum of 100-150F surface contact temperature to work properly. a) Low temperature=more time, b) High temperature=faster results.
Energy Release has a definite residual effect on treated surfaces, even if the surface is dry after treatment.

ER, like Amsoil friction reducing products and others, should be read for applications in air rifle bores and air chamber seals/pressure release caps/pump seals etc.

Read Amsoil info on Automotive & Diesel engine applications like this URL and URL's from other manufactureres of Synthetic lube products. http://www.texassynthetics.com/farm.htm

When Summer arrives or I get a simple means of bringing my rifle up to 100+F temperature.... I'm gonna fire a "glob" of ER from the compressing arm pump seal up and THROUGH the bore with rifle aimed at zenith without pellets and more shots with the rifle aimed down with pellets. Will take a number of shots to clear all the excess, but worth it to me. If John Deere equipment likes it, my Diesel truck likes it, and my Jeep likes it
..... so will my little rifle with permanent "scoot juice". -LarryS
LarryS
Posts: 189
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:42 am

Addendum...

#2 Post by LarryS »

From the beginning.... I have been applying ER by Q-tip to all moving and unmoving parts(like seals), in my airgun. Now I want to thoroughly saturate my bore. Shooting a Q-tip through the bore does not guarantee thorough "wetting" of all surfaces..... hence a "glob" will be shot thru the gun followed by using pellets to evenly spread it.

My way of doing things may not be acceptable to others.... but alternate products to common oil(however pure) should be investigated in my opinion for extended rifle life. -LarryS
link_dc
Posts: 412
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Location: Canada, BC

#3 Post by link_dc »

cool! where do you get this from? does it also increase the velocity of your gun? does it also make it quieiter?
my airguns, Crosman Quest 500, Gamo Delta, Daisy Buck, and Diana Mod 24!
LarryS
Posts: 189
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:42 am

#4 Post by LarryS »

I would expect an increase in velocity because the bore would be smoother. The amount of actual velocity change is unknown since I have already partially applied some in the bore and other points on the gun.

The purpose of the post was to cause others to investigate the properties of locally available synthetics which are characterized by molecular bonding. This provides long-term properties greatly exceeding the lubricating efficiency of common oils against friction of any kind.

I became interested in similar bonding lubricants years ago when outboard motor performance caught my interest and since then, constantly find new ways to use these synthetics.

Also those interested in their own vehicle performance, gas & diesel, might want to read Amsoils comments on the upper right hand menu of the URL screen. Those comments are true of MANY bonding synthetics provided by other manufacturers. -LarryS
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ETA
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#5 Post by ETA »

For what it is worth, in the late eights, I did some research for a branch of the Canadian government testing the suitability of high mix ratio 2-cycle Amsoil synthetic oil for their equipment. The results with the Amsoil were poor compare to the regular Castrol oil they were already using.
No additive is going to replace a proper film of lubricating oil. So don't believe all the hype.
LarryS
Posts: 189
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:42 am

#6 Post by LarryS »

I don't doubt that for two reasons.

1) Few of Amsoil special lubricants are designed for molecular bonding in the micro defects to smooth the surface.

2) Those products that do provide this bonding are NOT designed to create an oil film for lubrication.

Amsoil did make a very effective Racing oil with bonding properties & a lubricating film too but I do not remember the name now. If I remember correctly the container was Grey and later came out Black. That scoot juice gave me measurable acceleration & speed increases when added to engine fuel of a Mercury 40HP outboard. I did a long study and compiled the info on an international website a few years or so ago. How you intend to use this stuff makes the difference as well as the combinations used with it.

The U.S. Navy was using similar stuff in their Fast Warships and may still do so now. Long engine life was the goal. There are many sources for this high tech stuff. Amsoil & ER are just a couple that came readilly to mind.
-LarryS
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ETA
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#7 Post by ETA »

LarryS wrote:I don't doubt that for two reasons.

1) Few of Amsoil special lubricants are designed for molecular bonding in the micro defects to smooth the surface.

2) Those products that do provide this bonding are NOT designed to create an oil film for lubrication.

Amsoil did make a very effective Racing oil with bonding properties & a lubricating film too but I do not remember the name now. If I remember correctly the container was Grey and later came out Black. That scoot juice gave me measurable acceleration & speed increases when added to engine fuel of a Mercury 40HP outboard. I did a long study and compiled the info on an international website a few years or so ago. How you intend to use this stuff makes the difference as well as the combinations used with it.

The U.S. Navy was using similar stuff in their Fast Warships and may still do so now. Long engine life was the goal. There are many sources for this high tech stuff. Amsoil & ER are just a couple that came readilly to mind.
-LarryS
You are right, they do give you more power, no doubt about that. You have more fuel per mix than using the regular two stroke oil.
Sorry man, saw it first hand with my own two eyes. Not some second hand Navy accounts.
If you don't believe it, you can easily conduct a simple test to prove it. Get two identical inexpensive 2-stroke Weed-Eater or any other 2-stroke engine. Take a macro photo of the cylinder walls with a good digital camera. Run one with regular oil and run the other using Amsoil according to their mix ratio. All it takes is 200 hours to see the results. Very obvious.
Amsoil is design for better power and cleaner burn from high mix ratio. Great for racing with the extra power. However, it is at the expense of the reduction in lubrication. Most 2-stroke engines do not like it. It definitely do not make your 2-stroke engine last longer, more the reverse.
What do you think works better? Metal not touching metal at all due to an adequate amount of oil film between them or treated metal actually touching treated metal? Not a hard question to answer.

As for additives that 'smoothing metal surface by treatment', why do you want that? Isn't the lubricating oil suppose to adhere to the metal wall to do its job and the reason people hone cylinder walls instead of polishing them so that the oil do adhere?
LarryS
Posts: 189
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:42 am

#8 Post by LarryS »

We are nearly saying the same thing.

The distinction lies in the method & type of molecular bonding. Molecular bonding uniformly over ALL metal surfaces is what Amsoil tried to do with a lubricant added which leaves little or no residue in 2 stroke engines from the fuel mix of about 4 Oz. per 5 Gallons of gas. This is not the principle I am referring too. Amsoil is just an easy starting point for further research.

Amsoil was not the original inventor or developer of the priniciple of molecular bonding which was designed to fill only the rough pores in metal and not provide a bonding over all metal surfaces. That invention was done by another corp. somewhere back East (Ohio or Michigan?). It has been too long since I contacted them and ordered the "Real Stuff" which was used by the Navy. It had a strange name that I do not recall. Anyway Amsoil got into the act much later with their 2 cycle hybrid oils.

Micron size and larger particles of abrasive metal are in suspension and permiate the lubricant at all times in the conventional use of lubricating oils. ER which is closely allied to the original molecular bonding principle, works by REDUCING the amount of suspended abrasives in the lubricant by smoothing the working metal surface. The lubricant added with it will carry less particles in suspension when the bonding in the pores has taken place.

Your testing was valid for the type of test you did.

The ER test is a two step process which would have been superior IF ER could be added to fuel. It cannot. Residuals & byproducts of combustion would result. ER is NOT designed for 2 cycle applications. It must be introduced with oil long enough to do the pore bonding, then it would be desireable to change the lubricant to remove older particle suspension so that only the newer very fine micron levels of particles are suspended and transported over the moving surfaces.

In MY case..... I want pore bonding in the barrel and metal areas that must be sealed by O-rings. Then any lubricant I use can concentrate only on lubricating and sealing the now superior metal finishes.

Hope this lengthly spill of 90 wt. gear lube from my mental cracks makes sense to you. :-) -LarryS
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