What could be improved on QB78

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TCooper · #16 Post by **TCooper** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 12:24 pm

The stripper will eat through a plastic garbage bag. The stuff is powerful. I once had a dumb idea to pour some stripper into an empty plastic yogurt cup to make it easier to apply with the brush. Hmmm... the bottom melted out of the plastic cup. Glass works much better.

I use cardboard under the stocks to catch drips.

I started using the old Poly Stripper product on stocks about 25 years ago. You certainly know when you accidentally get a drop on your arm. It starts to burn until removed with cold water. Ouch!

Hey BobV, that oven cleaner trick seem to be popular. Many guys up here use it on old military stocks. I saw one old military stock that the owner did on a wood stove. He would heat the stock over the stove and rub the oil as it leached out. He kept doing this for weeks and the end result was amazing. The excess oil was absorbed into the cloth but the rubbing created a great shine and appearance. Lots of ways to success.

Many shooters vouch for their favourite stock finishing techniques. Danish Oil, Tung Oil, LinSeed, LinSpeed, French polish, Urethane, Epoxy coat, Tru-Oil, etc....
I still seem to use mainly Tru-Oil since it has worked for me for more than 20 stocks. Sometimes I seal the inletting with Danich Oil because it's thin and doesn't add any thickness (soaks in). I have used a type of nature Danish Oil finish (with polymers) as a thin sealer but usually I just use the Tru-Oil alone.

It's all good

Todd

bobv · #17 Post by **bobv** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 12:43 pm

I also use the hot stove technic after I used the oven clearner and rinsed the stock in hot water. I trun on the electric stove and pass the stock over the red hot element , not to close, it dries the wood and makes the left over oils bubble to the surface ,you wipe it away or less most of it . I usally finish my stocks either with Tung oil or Tru-Oil that I rub down with Pumice rubbing compound to smooth it ,than rub with Rottenstone Rubbing Compound to give it nice satin sheen after that, a coat of Antiquax and buff. It makes for a smooth satin shine. With tung oil I just leave natural no rub down, just wax ( Antiquax) and buff
Bob

bobv · #18 Post by **bobv** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 12:49 pm

I just remembered ( it happens sometimes) when finishing military stocks like the Lee-Enfield , I would mix 1 part Bees Wax ,1 part Turpentine and 1 part BLO ( Boiled Linseed Oil) it gives you a polish that buffs up the a satin finish also and a nice smell...real nice...Gee I'm beginning to miss my L-E's
Bob

TCooper · #19 Post by **TCooper** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:01 pm

I'm not fond of high gloss finishes either. I use rottenstone or a very light rub with 0000 steel wool to cut the gloss.

I had a few rifles that looked fine with the factory finish but I never seem to trust factory jobs. I'm always concerned with their neglect for sealing the inletting. Danish Oil can be used to top coat many factory finishes. I had a new Winchester 52B (Japan made) that looked great after a top coat with Danish. I sealed under the grip cap, butt plate, and inletting. I applied a coat to the exterior and let it sit about 30 minutes before removing all the surplus oil. A couple of coats left a sealed stock that was easy to touch up if scratches happen. It always looks new. I also did a Rem 870 Express this way and it turned out great (had a Walnut stock).

I was at Home Depot today and they have an Antique Danish Oil. The can says it can be used over stains and finishes. This should be a good product to top coat a cheap factory finish on Diana or Weihrauch air rifles. This is a quick alternative to a full blown strip-stain-finish job. I have used the Danish on my walnut HW45 grips with good success. It worked great for checkering because it's so thin. Apply and then brush out surplus with an old toothbrush. Moisture is sealed out.

I think the best stain I have used was actually a filler. The Birchwood Casey walnut toned filler makes a walnut stock look like an expensive piece of furniture. It goes on like mud but it's easy to work. Once the Tru-Oil is applied the grain will jump out at you. I did an old Rem 40X stock, a Kimber, and a TC Renegade stock that all had nice walnut details. A Parker-Hale also turned out nice. Some beech stocks turn out fine but occasionally a different approach is needed.

Todd

#20 Post by **sniper** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 8:47 pm

I was down at Rona tonight and saw tons of different kind of oil but no
linseed oil .... strange.... I saw that tru-oil too...
I guess one preference what they like the gun to look like, I'm just happy
that I'm getting good with this linseed oil. I use to hate working with stock.
Now I'm getting the hang of it.
Does any body here know if it is ok for a varnished surface can be sand
down a bit and apply linseed oil over it ???

thecozz · #21 Post by **thecozz** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:06 pm

I dont think so , i think the oil not penetrat the wood.

ETA · #22 Post by **ETA** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:37 pm

sniper wrote:I was down at Rona tonight and saw tons of different kind of oil but no
linseed oil .... strange.... I saw that tru-oil too...
I guess one preference what they like the gun to look like, I'm just happy
that I'm getting good with this linseed oil. I use to hate working with stock.
Now I'm getting the hang of it.
Does any body here know if it is ok for a varnished surface can be sand
down a bit and apply linseed oil over it ???

True-oil works with my existing IZH-46M finish. I just wipe it down good to remove any oil and grease. Reshape some parts of it and than True-oil over fresh wood and old finish. Looks just fine.

I also wipe down my TAU 200 really good and couple light coats of True-oil with no problems. It looks fine too. YMMV

#23 Post by **sniper** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:40 pm

thecozz wrote:I dont think so , i think the oil not penetrat the wood.

ok ....
I was thinking what if the second coats of linseed oil is applied it wouldn't
have to penetrate the wood would it ? since first coat of linseed is there
already, I guess what I would like to know is that if linseed oil will stick
over the varnish or will it peel away ....

ETA · #24 Post by **ETA** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:16 pm

sniper wrote:
thecozz wrote:I dont think so , i think the oil not penetrat the wood.
ok ....
I was thinking what if the second coats of linseed oil is applied it wouldn't
have to penetrate the wood would it ? since first coat of linseed is there
already, I guess what I would like to know is that if linseed oil will stick
over the varnish or will it peel away ....

If you clean the varnish well to remove any wax or grease. Buff it with 000 steel wool to remove any gloss. I don't see how it can peel.

TCooper · #25 Post by **TCooper** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:58 pm

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil will harden on top of a wood surface if it cannot penetrate. On unfinished wood it will penetrate until the grain is full. Tru-Oil is quite thick, compared to Danish Oil and Tung Oil. http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/

Regular boiled liseed oil will take forever to dry. Test it on a piece of scrap wood before using it on your stock. You will notice that it is tacky for weeks after. For this reason, LinSpeed was created. George Brother's LinSpeed is basically a fast drying Linseed oil. I first used this product over 27 years ago on my first airgun, an old Slavia 624. Check here for some LinSpeed info http://www.huntamerica.com/linspeed/

It is quite possible that there are other products out there that also alter the linseed oil to enhance drying speeds. I have not looked at linseed oil products in many years so I wouldn't know. The plain boiled stuff is slooooow to dry. LinSpeed dries in a few hours.

HTH,
Todd

#26 Post by **sniper** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:07 am

I've been using this hi-speed linseed oil dry rifle stock in about 9 hours.

TCooper · #27 Post by **TCooper** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:18 am

Sounds good. The G96 company is obviously selling a modified linseed oil product with enhanced drying. I remember, when I was a kid, the large linseed oil containers that looked the same size as your furniture stripper container.

Todd

ETA · #28 Post by **ETA** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:55 am

sniper wrote:I've been using this hi-speed linseed oil dry rifle stock in about 9 hours.

Sniper, you should definitely try some Tru-Oil. Drys very fast. Tack-free and can be handled or re-coated in about 2-4 hours at room temperature. Fully hardens in about 12 to 24 hours. It is a thicker oil with amber tint to it. Nice to work with.
I also have some Danish oil. A lot thinner and very clear. Drying time is quite long. Tack-free about 12 to 18 hours. Hardens in 3 to 5 days.

#29 Post by **sniper** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:27 am

ETA wrote: Sniper, you should definitely try some Tru-Oil. Drys very fast. Tack-free and can be handled or re-coated in about 2-4 hours at room temperature. Fully hardens in about 12 to 24 hours. It is a thicker oil with amber tint to it. Nice to work with.
I also have some Danish oil. A lot thinner and very clear. Drying time is quite long. Tack-free about 12 to 18 hours. Hardens in 3 to 5 days.

OK ..... Tru-Oil...... is that the one that I saw at Rona too ???
how's the finish look like ???

ETA · #30 Post by **ETA** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:56 am

sniper wrote:
ETA wrote: Sniper, you should definitely try some Tru-Oil. Drys very fast. Tack-free and can be handled or re-coated in about 2-4 hours at room temperature. Fully hardens in about 12 to 24 hours. It is a thicker oil with amber tint to it. Nice to work with.
I also have some Danish oil. A lot thinner and very clear. Drying time is quite long. Tack-free about 12 to 18 hours. Hardens in 3 to 5 days.
OK ..... Tru-Oil...... is that the one that I saw at Rona too ???
how's the finish look like ???

You mean RONA has Tru-oil.

That would be handy. I get them from SIR. Other outdoor/sporting goods places or Walmart might have them.

This stuff:

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html