3574/6/8 mods

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ABshooter
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3574/6/8 mods

#1 Post by ABshooter »

Are there any mods that can be done to a Cr 357?? Thanks
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airsmith282
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#2 Post by airsmith282 »

well you can shim the hammer spring up and give it more zip that way other then that i my self dont know of any other mods for the 357...
jezX
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#3 Post by jezX »

there is a couple thing that can be done , but you need a lathe . and dremel . and a spar .22 barrel.
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#4 Post by Parker_101_ »

jezX wrote:there is a couple thing that can be done , but you need a lathe . and dremel . and a spar .22 barrel.
Oh yea... that's got my attention.....it involves a .22 barrel you say.....can you elaborate.....please....thanks...... :wink:
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#5 Post by jezX »

wow . jumped on that quick .
one problem is the large V shape the pellet enters to go to the barrel . this is not needed and lets air pass the pellet .(cr 600 do the same ).
a new barrel can be made with out the V, just a slight shoulder . also the valve end of the barrel should have a larger flat . this will let the cylinder rotate better and hold presure better . next the valve can be moded like other guns open the air port a little .(a little!)
the cylinder drilled out with a #2 drillbit (i think, .216)
to drill it you must drill in only till the tip of the drill comes out . drill all the way through and it will NOT work . the best way is to put a 2 hard steel piece under it and drill from front to back with the teeth stradeld . when the drill touches the hard steel it will leave a rim just right . hammer can be weighted also
this will get a .22 440f/s .
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#6 Post by Parker_101_ »

Here's one looking for some service............Its been apart for a month now......ideas.ideas,ideas........ :idea: :D :idea:
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Castle02
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#7 Post by Castle02 »

I found this on the Crosman airgun forum.
Fun guns to mod, mild to wild. Do search, I and others have listed in detail the mods, but in short: biggest power mod:8" barrel, most accuracy mod: buy several 6 shot clips, tape a sheet of 220 wet or dry sandpaper to a sheet of glass, carefuly sand front of clips dead flat, (figure 8 motion, rotate clip 1/4 turn every 4th figure 8)just until all shine is gone. SLIGHTLY countersink back of each "chamber" in the clip, just enough to get a good index on the rear seal. Then test until you find the best 2 or 3 clips, mark them. A .22 cal conversion is easy and fun. Shim between the piercing body and the mainspring for a bit more power, file frame and barrel LIGHTLY where they touch to improve lockup, replace rubber latch "spring" with a piece of latex tubing, shim the steel latch "stirup" as well. Fairly easy to groove the rib on 8" barrel to mount scope, will need rimfire type rings, or bolt on weaver mount to top of rib. Locktite pivot pins into main frame(not cover plate)You can lighten the hammer for faster lock time, will lose a bit of power unless you shim the mainspring. A sleeve on the mainspring where it meets the hammer will smooth things up. stone the sear, moly lube all bearing surfaces. If you shot iron sights file the front to a hook, "patridge" style, back cut rear notch, sand plastic sight body to reduce glare, apply "sight black" (Birchwood Casey), flatten and matte the rib, cheapy electric engraver is good for this, practice on come scrap aluminum first. I used to shoot NRA air pistol silhouette with a gun set up this way, out shot some match pistols costing 10-20 times the crosmans price. Not always, though. LOL

you can fix 80% of it by just polishing the back of the trigger where it contact the little lever. Also round out the shape leading edge of the little lever. Put a little bit of moly grease on the contact surfaces.
The best part is that you don't even have to take the gun apart. Those parts a full exposed.
You can finish the job by taking the gun apart and properly greasing the inner mechanism

first thing I usually do with these guns is red loctite the pivot pins into ONE side of the frame. Requires complete disassembly, degrease, loctite in frame holes, pins in, screw down cover plate, cure 24hrs. while waitng stone all sliding surfaces on trigger and hammer, including where mainspring slides. Sleeve leg of mainspring with mini brass tube. polish sear and notch on hammer, lube with moly grease. While in there you might shim the mainspring for a bit more poop. or drill the hammer for faster locktime.Do both and power wont change much, locktime will go way down. with 8" barrel, these mods, and some attention to the cylinder detent/seal you should see near 500 fps at 65 deg F. w CPL's
get more velocity by trimming the valve spring 2 or 3 coils, stream-line the valve stem, get an 8" barrel and convert it to use .22 pellets to do this you have to find a .22 barrel with a 5/16" OD have someone with a lathe turn the front of the barrel down to 1/4" OD then you have to get a tapered reamer slightly smaller in diameter than a .22 pellet and ream out the cylinders so a .22 pellet won't fall through the chamber on the cylinder, or you can lightly counter-sink the back of each chamber on the cylinder, and you can use lighter pellets.

Take the gun apart. Under the barrel latch there is a silver valve body, you have to take the valve out of the gun, open the valve by using retaining ring pliers to remove the retaining ring, but remove the ring inside a ziplock bag cause the puck assy. is spring loaded by the valve spring so be careful!
Just cut 2 spring coils off of one end of the valve spring with wire cutters.

I don't know how much of a power increase these mods will give you, cause I don't have a chronograph. But I could tell there was a difference in power. To contour the valve stem, chuck it in a cordless drill or drill press, and make the stem as aero-dynamic as possible by holding a file to the stem as it rotates.]
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#8 Post by Parker_101_ »

A .22CAL accurate shooting CR357 in and around the 440 mark sounds just right for this pistol....It'll be a future project.....thanks ....... :wink:
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