Duct Seal pellet trap

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TCooper
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Duct Seal pellet trap

#1 Post by TCooper »

Here is a pic of my cheapo "Duct Seal" pellet trap. This trap is about 5 years old now and still working fine with the same putty. I made it from some scrap wood, some stain I had, some old urethane I had, and a paper clasp. I bought the D-handle at Walmart for cheap. The trap fits a regular piece of 8.5"x11" paper but I can't shoot close to the edges. :lol:

The reservoir at the bottom of the putty was intentional. It's about 1.25" from bottom of putty to bottom of trap (reservoir depth). I use a cardboard backer behind my targets. Most of the bits of paper and cardboard fall into the reservoir at the bottom of the trap. The wooden "lip" at the bottom keeps the paper from falling out onto the floor. The putty is about 1.75" behind my target so there is a void that allows the paper bits to fall down into the reservoir.

The pellets in the trap were shot from non-PAL airguns. They barely penetrate to flush. Total putty thickness is about 1.5", although 1" would be fine for my needs (400-500fps).

Todd

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#2 Post by TCooper »

I usually empty this trap every 250-300 shots. I scoup out all the paper from the reservoir every 100 shots or so.

To empty the trap I first empty the reservoir of paper and then use a small slotted screwdriver to pop the pellets from duct seal and let them roll into reservoir. The trap sits on my lap when doing the emptying duty :D When all the pellets are out I dump them into an empty coffee can and smooth out the duct seal. When the can gets about 2/3 to 3/4 full (about 20 pounds) I drop it off at a gunshop for muzzlelaoder shooters to use (cast balls). I think this trap has seen over 60 pounds of pellets since year 2000.

Todd
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#3 Post by sammy »

Todd - do u buy the putty @ the hardware store - home depot? paint section? or ....
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#4 Post by under500fps »

Mine is a Beeman 2085 was around $43 plus i had to reinforce it with sheet metal and 1/2" to 1" of Lepage blue fun-tak.
It does the same job. :wink:
I get the fun-tak free. :twisted:
Part of my job is cleanning walls in a school. :cry:
But i don't clean mine anymore and nothing bounces of it so it is ok :oops:
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Last edited by under500fps on Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#5 Post by sammy »

Todd - never mind my previous query - search button told me all i needed to know
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#6 Post by ustilago »

Image

I had some scrap sheet metal laying around and a pair of tin snips. I figured this would be a good enough reason for me to invest in a pop rivet tool.

I know its not totally square and pretty looking but it does hold an 8.5x11 sheet of paper (magnets) and it does a superb job of soaking up lead. A Gamo Masterpoint carrying ~10 ftlbs of energy will not penetrate the single layer of duct seal.
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#7 Post by TCooper »

sammy wrote:Todd - never mind my previous query - search button told me all i needed to know
Hi Sammy,

I bought my duct seal back in 2000. At the time I phoned about 6 electrical supply shops that were in our local phone book. The price for a pound went from $1.86 to over $3.00. I bought about 7 pounds at $1.86.

Phone around and check the prices.

HTH,
Todd
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#8 Post by sammy »

Todd - thanks for the info.
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#9 Post by yakfish »

what is duct seal? and where do you find it? Is it just some kind of putty? what about window putty, would that work or is this duct seal pretty haevy stuff? I want to make one of those the woud be great be able to keep your old pellets! I cast my own lead fishing weights, and am always looking for lead sources!
thanks
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#10 Post by airgunfun »

It's a form of putty used to seal in electrical conduits through walls. It can be purchased at most hardware store in the electrical section. If you don't see it...ask for it...sometimes it's hidden away. Available in 1lb packages
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#11 Post by yakfish »

thanks I'll have to see if I can pick some up!
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