ordered my 631
- Kidstar64
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 4:39 pm
- Location: Upper Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada
ordered my 631
so i dont really want to molly the gun, willl some minral oil or hydrolic oil good
-Fear The Spork-
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
- Kidstar64
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 4:39 pm
- Location: Upper Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada
ok so i here that the gun comes dry, and i asked airsmith and he said to oil it. so it is alright to use hydrolic oil or minral oil?
-Fear The Spork-
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
If you're going to use oil, use somekind of oil that reduce friction, and prevent rust. On some of my gun I use Slick50. I would be carful with hydrolic oil because some might ruin the seal and mineral oil, I think it's too light.Kidstar64 wrote:ok so i here that the gun comes dry, and i asked airsmith and he said to oil it. so it is alright to use hydrolic oil or minral oil?
Careful
Ive never used oil in my slav except for maybe a tiny drop in my cocking hinge. If u get oil into the compression chamber in front of the seal, you will prob get some smoking or diesaling. That can burn your seal, and then fps will drop off because you're not gettin a good seal. Then you'll prob have to replace the factory piston seal, and tats like $9 from london arms. Oil in your barrel will usually affect accuracy too, gunk, gummy, ick!
Try to grab some moly from walmart if u can, theres a brand made by loctite. Honda has some moly that you can try out too, lots of ppl use that stuff. Grab a tub of Maccari moly and get some peace of mind. For the mainspring you can use motomaster moly tar, i think its called open gear grease, it comes in a tube for grease guns. Ive used that stuff in my 630 before i got Maccari's lubes, and had no diesaling with it.
Anyhoot, hope this helps. I;m sure somebody knows the details to the honda stuff.
Try to grab some moly from walmart if u can, theres a brand made by loctite. Honda has some moly that you can try out too, lots of ppl use that stuff. Grab a tub of Maccari moly and get some peace of mind. For the mainspring you can use motomaster moly tar, i think its called open gear grease, it comes in a tube for grease guns. Ive used that stuff in my 630 before i got Maccari's lubes, and had no diesaling with it.
Anyhoot, hope this helps. I;m sure somebody knows the details to the honda stuff.
"It aint rocket appliance"
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"Come on guys, this is the worst geekfest I ever seen, arguing about some airgun that is rare.."
http://jungletrain.net/
http://bassdrive.com/BassDrive.m3u
"Come on guys, this is the worst geekfest I ever seen, arguing about some airgun that is rare.."
- airsmith282
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:30 am
- Location: North Bay Ontario Canada
its not alright to use hydrolic oil or minral oil in the gun...Kidstar64 wrote:ok so i here that the gun comes dry, and i asked airsmith and he said to oil it. so it is alright to use hydrolic oil or minral oil?
I told kidstar he can use SAE 30 nondetergent in guns with leather seals. i have used it for long time now and ever harmed a seal yet and in fact i also use it in my guns with synthetic seals as well and no problem there either. can also use Crosman pellgun oil as well....its not good to us minral oil or hydrolic oil in airguns unless the manufactor so implies to do so.. most of the chiness springers say to use nondetergent oil in the chamer in their guns, dianas use silicon chamer oil but can use 1 or 2 drops of pellgun oil or sae 30 nondetergent oil ...the deasel affect happens in all springers when using anykind of oil at all. and ther has to be some sort of lub in them other wise the seals will blow. syntheic seals that some in direct contact with the chamer dry will burn out fast .if no lube is present and the amount of oil needed is only like a drop or 2 for the synthetic seal type guns. and severl drops for guns with leather seals as the seal needs to swell to make a tight seal.. and kidstar never dry fire any break barrel gun /springer..as you can and will damage the gun.. by dry fire i mean by fireing then gun with out a pellet in it.. the only time you put oil in the barrel is when storing the gun for along time this will prevent the inner barrel from rusting out. then when you want to use the gun again then simply clean out the innner barrel and fire away.. you can and in most case will get the desil affect and smoke from any springer when using oil in the piston chamer this will clear after several shots... and desiling usually happens when you used to much oil and or to thin of oil....also if you put to thick of moly past and tar in the gun when doing a lube tune you can cause a back pressure so great that its possible to break the spring so be careful when doing this sort of thing..i bought an old slavia once and some one molly and tar tuned this gun why ill never know it was not a high power rifle and it caused the spring to twist and buckle,. so out came the junk and in went a new spring and seal , just a little bit of white lithume grease on the piston where is slides and 2 drops of pellgun oil down the chamber and the gun was back to normal again and shot great after that...
- Kidstar64
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 4:39 pm
- Location: Upper Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada
so i can use pellgunoil on the piston and it wond damage it, i just dont want to to magor dissambly
-Fear The Spork-
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
- Kidstar64
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 4:39 pm
- Location: Upper Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada
bump
-Fear The Spork-
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
- airsmith282
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:30 am
- Location: North Bay Ontario Canada
Kidstar64 if you want the best advise anyone can give you,, read the manule that comes with the gun and use what it tells you....
if you are not experienced with moly and tar tunes and lubes dont do it or your likely to cause some damage to the gun and maybe your self. NO mods of any kind should be carried out by thoes that are not experienced in doing so properly......
if you want to learn the art of airsmithing then find your self some one that is willing to teach you the right way and that has expereince in airsmithing,
if you are not experienced with moly and tar tunes and lubes dont do it or your likely to cause some damage to the gun and maybe your self. NO mods of any kind should be carried out by thoes that are not experienced in doing so properly......
if you want to learn the art of airsmithing then find your self some one that is willing to teach you the right way and that has expereince in airsmithing,
The Slavia 631 does comes bone dry.
The key here is not to over do it. You only need to lubricate the parts that needs it. Just a very thin coating will do. A drop on the cocking linkage joints, break barrel latch mechanism, trigger pivots, safety button, a couple on the main break barrel pivot and back portion of the main spring. A light rub on the breech seal.
Actually, Pelletgun oil, motor oil, 3-1 oil, even hydraulic oil is OK. Just not too much on the main spring so as to get into the compression chamber. We don't want any dieseling to affect shot to shot inconsistency. All the main spring needs is a thin film to prevent rust.
The seals on the Slavia is synthetic and is not affected by most oils.
Moly or Teflon fortified oils might be nice, but a tiny bit of oil in the areas the needs it is better than nothing.
The key here is not to over do it. You only need to lubricate the parts that needs it. Just a very thin coating will do. A drop on the cocking linkage joints, break barrel latch mechanism, trigger pivots, safety button, a couple on the main break barrel pivot and back portion of the main spring. A light rub on the breech seal.
Actually, Pelletgun oil, motor oil, 3-1 oil, even hydraulic oil is OK. Just not too much on the main spring so as to get into the compression chamber. We don't want any dieseling to affect shot to shot inconsistency. All the main spring needs is a thin film to prevent rust.
The seals on the Slavia is synthetic and is not affected by most oils.
Moly or Teflon fortified oils might be nice, but a tiny bit of oil in the areas the needs it is better than nothing.
Also, the 631 is terribly easy to disassemble for a proper lube. This is the perfect gun to cut your teeth on. If you can't do it on this gun....probably best to find another hobby or find someone locally to do the maintenance for you. Like Nike says....JUST DO IT. For christ's sake...have some confidence. We're here to help if you run into a problem.
- Kidstar64
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 4:39 pm
- Location: Upper Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada
well i spent all the money i dont want to f**k it up, and my dad mite b able to halp me, hes a jack of all trades
-Fear The Spork-
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here
My guns: Slavia 631 Crosman 1008B Daisy Model 111 Walther PPK/S
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1521 pics here