Bluing Kit from Hoppes or Outers
Bluing Kit from Hoppes or Outers
Hi everyone,
Has anyone tried using these bluing kits offered by Hoppes or Outers?
Just like to get some feedback on these products.
I am thinking of using it on my Mark I... comments??
Take care,
NIGHTHAWK
Has anyone tried using these bluing kits offered by Hoppes or Outers?
Just like to get some feedback on these products.
I am thinking of using it on my Mark I... comments??
Take care,
NIGHTHAWK
- airsmith282
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:30 am
- Location: North Bay Ontario Canada
ok here are my opnions
GUN slick blueing sucks for full reblues but good for touch up stuff very small touch ups
Birchwood casey super blue its good stuff but not on all metals good on new guns not so good on the old guns
Hoppes 9 blueing totaly rocks for full reblues and touch ups and the price is under 5.00 before tax and the stuff goes along way as well..
these are my opnions and my experiences with these 3 product lines of blueing
GUN slick blueing sucks for full reblues but good for touch up stuff very small touch ups
Birchwood casey super blue its good stuff but not on all metals good on new guns not so good on the old guns
Hoppes 9 blueing totaly rocks for full reblues and touch ups and the price is under 5.00 before tax and the stuff goes along way as well..
these are my opnions and my experiences with these 3 product lines of blueing
Hi Airgunfun,airgunfun wrote:What are you planning to blue on the Mk.I? It's all pot metal (alloy), bluing won't work on it.
The whole gun was the plan... but after reading your posting, you have answered my question. Not a good idea then.
I want to try to restore the gun myself. I figured if I mess it up, then I could always send it to Wrong Way to repaint.
Thanks,
NIGHTHAWK
Thanks Airsmith282 for the info. I was thinking of doing the Mark I but as Airgunfun mentioned, it will not work. But at least with your info I can always use Hoppes 9 for my other airguns/air rifles.airsmith282 wrote:ok here are my opnions
GUN slick blueing sucks for full reblues but good for touch up stuff very small touch ups
Birchwood casey super blue its good stuff but not on all metals good on new guns not so good on the old guns
Hoppes 9 blueing totaly rocks for full reblues and touch ups and the price is under 5.00 before tax and the stuff goes along way as well..
these are my opnions and my experiences with these 3 product lines of blueing
Take care,
NIGHTHAWK
- airsmith282
- Posts: 1898
- Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 12:30 am
- Location: North Bay Ontario Canada
if you want to restore the mark I in order to keep its value get some etching primer and a can of lacure gloss or semi gloss black paint the color match stuff at ctire works best for this, and do not do not try and varnish coat it after to protect the paint its not required with this stuff and it will mess up the paint job if you do. the varnish wont hold to the lacqure paint,,, as for blueing you can re blue the loading knob and shaft and the cocking bar as well as the rear site plate and screws and you can also reblue the pericing cap assembly but the rest of the gun gets painted only.......
you will need about 3 coats max 4 coats of paint in order to cover up the etching primer and avoid runs in the paint as well and it will have a very nice look to it after its all done...just be sure to totaly dismantle the gun before painting it, after about 2 weeks or so after paint has been on the gun long enough then you can buff it with a wax coating to keep the luster shine and help protect the paint better.
you will need about 3 coats max 4 coats of paint in order to cover up the etching primer and avoid runs in the paint as well and it will have a very nice look to it after its all done...just be sure to totaly dismantle the gun before painting it, after about 2 weeks or so after paint has been on the gun long enough then you can buff it with a wax coating to keep the luster shine and help protect the paint better.
Hey thanks for the info Airsmith282. I have heard of owners taking the gun to a body shop and getting the gun all repainted, clear coated and then buffed to a miror finish....
I will try it out myself first. Worst case I would pay someone else to repaint the gun.
What about sandblasting the gun frame? Should I go to this extent to remove the old paint?
Take care,
NIGHTHAWK
I will try it out myself first. Worst case I would pay someone else to repaint the gun.
What about sandblasting the gun frame? Should I go to this extent to remove the old paint?
Take care,
NIGHTHAWK
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- Posts: 200
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:34 pm
- Location: Alberta