IF project-X used a 2240 powerplant, and IF it had a 14" barrel, and IF it had a rediculously light valve spring, and IF it had a stronger hammer spring, and IF the valve was milled out with the piecing pin removed, and IF the transfer port mod was done......would 604.4 FPS sound about right as the maximum with 14.3 gr. pellets?
Ryan
Hypothetically speaking.........
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- Location: Spruce Grove AB
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- Posts: 2374
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 5:20 pm
- Location: Spruce Grove AB
you want more mods?
well, first of all, make sure your bolt o-ring doesnt leak. i had a few that did, was because of where it seals in the barrel, sometimes theres minor imperfections on the sealing surface. just polish that up.
your transfer port. instead of just drilling the port for the air bigger, drill a hole for the transfer port material to sit in. same thing with the barrel.
now, the valve. do the angled port. make sure you polish it. ideally you'll want to get a port like this new "BOSS" valve thats going around. to do that you'll need to fill in the original exhaust port with jb weld or epoxy. then drill out a whole new port next to the filled in one... or on the other side, so as not to drill into the epoxy. next thing to do is drill out the port behind the valve stem seal. gotta be careful though, or you'll be ordering a new valve. after its done, polish the hell out of it.
i havent tried the boss valve style exhaust port on the 2240 yet. i did with my 1377 though, and it helped substantially. basically your just taking up spent volume. the co2/air has less room to expand before it reaches the pellet, making more power.
the extended bolt probe probably helps too, but i see a lot of them where the probe is the same diameter as the original one. i would think that a much smaller diameter probe would be better. right?
um, other than that, play with spring weights... an o-ring sealing the valve stem on the back of the valve would help too... cant think of any more...
well, first of all, make sure your bolt o-ring doesnt leak. i had a few that did, was because of where it seals in the barrel, sometimes theres minor imperfections on the sealing surface. just polish that up.
your transfer port. instead of just drilling the port for the air bigger, drill a hole for the transfer port material to sit in. same thing with the barrel.
now, the valve. do the angled port. make sure you polish it. ideally you'll want to get a port like this new "BOSS" valve thats going around. to do that you'll need to fill in the original exhaust port with jb weld or epoxy. then drill out a whole new port next to the filled in one... or on the other side, so as not to drill into the epoxy. next thing to do is drill out the port behind the valve stem seal. gotta be careful though, or you'll be ordering a new valve. after its done, polish the hell out of it.
i havent tried the boss valve style exhaust port on the 2240 yet. i did with my 1377 though, and it helped substantially. basically your just taking up spent volume. the co2/air has less room to expand before it reaches the pellet, making more power.
the extended bolt probe probably helps too, but i see a lot of them where the probe is the same diameter as the original one. i would think that a much smaller diameter probe would be better. right?
um, other than that, play with spring weights... an o-ring sealing the valve stem on the back of the valve would help too... cant think of any more...
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filling up space in the valve is not a good idea if your using a long barrel ,it will just restrick space . for a short barrel space can be minamal behind the stopper but will not produce a big difference .
also angleing the port has no purpose , the loss of volume is just a restriction and all valves should be big from stoper to barrel to get good flow .
also angleing the port has no purpose , the loss of volume is just a restriction and all valves should be big from stoper to barrel to get good flow .