Purchased in 1970, stayed in bag for 30 years.
I am giving it to my son.
What kind of maintenance should I do.
The gun is still very powerful without any weird noises. The wood is like new.
Not one sporting goods store in my area (Sherbrooke) want to open it.
Baron Sports, where it was purchased, do not carry the brand anymore.
I think I should lubricate the main coil or change some seals but I am not looing forward to open it.
I intend to buy a Bushnell 4X32 scope but I don't see it as being made for air rifles. Any comments on it?
Maintenance for a BSA Meteor Mk3
Thanks, CP, for the welcome and the answer.
It looks like BSA air rifles are not sold in Canada anymore and therefore no parts are available unless you import them from BSA in England or from a supplier over there.
I wonder if I should not spray some oil in the air hole hoping it lubricates inside and forget about opening it. "Don't repair it if it isn't broken" seems to be applicable here. But I am not sure...
I feel I owe some TLC to the quality of that gun.
I am glad to have found this forum.
It looks like BSA air rifles are not sold in Canada anymore and therefore no parts are available unless you import them from BSA in England or from a supplier over there.
I wonder if I should not spray some oil in the air hole hoping it lubricates inside and forget about opening it. "Don't repair it if it isn't broken" seems to be applicable here. But I am not sure...
I feel I owe some TLC to the quality of that gun.
I am glad to have found this forum.
Hi ,
BSA is sold in Canada , by D and L airguns , John can get you any parts you need and do repair work required . link...
http://www.dlairgun.com
I would strongly advise you against putting any kind of oil in the chamber
through the transfer port , as this will cause detonation and deiseling and could distroy the spring and /or seal.
It may be a good idea just to shoot it , and if it underperforms send it to be cleaned and lubed professionally.
Regards ,
Frank
BSA is sold in Canada , by D and L airguns , John can get you any parts you need and do repair work required . link...
http://www.dlairgun.com
I would strongly advise you against putting any kind of oil in the chamber
through the transfer port , as this will cause detonation and deiseling and could distroy the spring and /or seal.
It may be a good idea just to shoot it , and if it underperforms send it to be cleaned and lubed professionally.
Regards ,
Frank
Meteor Servicing
After removing the stock-
1) If you do not remove the rear sight before removing the barrel and cocking arm from the cylinder you will probably break the rear sight.
(BSA's method of ensuring expensive sales of a lot of cheap plastic sights)
2) Do not play with the trigger mechanism.
The trigger sear spring is fragile and you need three hands, slave pins, and patience to replace it.
3) The spring guide locks into grooves cut into the retaining pin.
To remove the retaining pin holding the guide and spring, use a 6" piece of dowel/broom handle with a 3/8" slot cut in it to push the spring guide forward before pushing out the pin.
The slotted dowel will be needed for reassembly
4) If you bought the gun new, a spring compresser should not be needed for disassembly/reassembly.
It you bought the gun used, beware of aftermarket springs.
5) On 30 year old Meteors, the #2347 buffer washer and breech seal may have deteriorated with age.
The new materials are better.
6) Meteors are nice powerful little guns for their size.
Registration & PAL/POL/FAC required in .177 (approx 650-700fps).
I use a very small amount of a mixture of 65% moly paste and light lithium grease in Meteors.
They are not powerful enough to have serious dieseling problems.
1) If you do not remove the rear sight before removing the barrel and cocking arm from the cylinder you will probably break the rear sight.
(BSA's method of ensuring expensive sales of a lot of cheap plastic sights)
2) Do not play with the trigger mechanism.
The trigger sear spring is fragile and you need three hands, slave pins, and patience to replace it.
3) The spring guide locks into grooves cut into the retaining pin.
To remove the retaining pin holding the guide and spring, use a 6" piece of dowel/broom handle with a 3/8" slot cut in it to push the spring guide forward before pushing out the pin.
The slotted dowel will be needed for reassembly
4) If you bought the gun new, a spring compresser should not be needed for disassembly/reassembly.
It you bought the gun used, beware of aftermarket springs.
5) On 30 year old Meteors, the #2347 buffer washer and breech seal may have deteriorated with age.
The new materials are better.
6) Meteors are nice powerful little guns for their size.
Registration & PAL/POL/FAC required in .177 (approx 650-700fps).
I use a very small amount of a mixture of 65% moly paste and light lithium grease in Meteors.
They are not powerful enough to have serious dieseling problems.
Thank you all for your time and information.
I will not open my gun because if something goes wrong, I am doomed.
I will figure out something.
I am glad BSA's are still serviced in Canada.
Everybody here seems to know what PAL means in relation to an airgun. Except me.
Would it be something like Provincial Airgun Licence, mandatory for all canadians who owns an airgun?
That or Provincial Alimony Law.
I will not open my gun because if something goes wrong, I am doomed.
I will figure out something.
I am glad BSA's are still serviced in Canada.
Everybody here seems to know what PAL means in relation to an airgun. Except me.
Would it be something like Provincial Airgun Licence, mandatory for all canadians who owns an airgun?
That or Provincial Alimony Law.
Possession and Acquisition License - PAL. Its a license to own and purchase firearms, or airguns over 500FPS (yes I know thats not cut and dry with impact energy, etc..)
http://www.cfc-cafc.gc.ca/online-en_lig ... /921_e.asp
http://www.cfc-cafc.gc.ca/online-en_lig ... /921_e.asp
Here's an airgun fact sheet you might want to read:
http://www.cfc-ccaf.gc.ca/info_for-rens ... guns_e.asp
http://www.cfc-ccaf.gc.ca/info_for-rens ... guns_e.asp
-
Krazy Mike
- Posts: 4510
- Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:27 am
- Location: R.R. #3 Simhoe
Thanks, Krazy Mickey.
Nice of you for the good words on my BSA.
JG Airguns are based in Illnois.
I don't know the problems I might encouter by sending a gun through customs for repair but I feel they can be numerous and complex.
I am considering your L4 solution though.
I love the things I am learning on this forum.
Nice of you for the good words on my BSA.
JG Airguns are based in Illnois.
I don't know the problems I might encouter by sending a gun through customs for repair but I feel they can be numerous and complex.
I am considering your L4 solution though.
I love the things I am learning on this forum.
May not be an ideal fix
The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Liquid Wrench 4 can be found at: http://www.gunk.com/msds/L404.PDF
The MSDS indicates that L4 is
-Up to 1% Zinc Dialkylithiophosphate (ZDP = motor oil detergent)
-10-30% Trade Secret Corrosion Inhibitor
with the remainder being Petroleum Based Oil/Solvent/Wax.
It has a medium flash point temperature (>200C) and is combustible.
I see no reason why it would not diesel in a powerful spring airgun.
I personally would be very hesitant to use it as a chamber lubricant.
At 30 years of age, the #2347 piston head buffer is probably crumbling.
If not replaced, pieces of the buffer may eventually jam the piston in the cylinder and make for very difficult disassemby.
The BSA Meteor is very easy to service if the proper sequence is followed.
I suggest that you take the gun apart yourself.
Shipping registered guns across the border for service is a PITA.
The cost for parts and service from jgairguns may be an unpleasant surprise.
The MSDS indicates that L4 is
-Up to 1% Zinc Dialkylithiophosphate (ZDP = motor oil detergent)
-10-30% Trade Secret Corrosion Inhibitor
with the remainder being Petroleum Based Oil/Solvent/Wax.
It has a medium flash point temperature (>200C) and is combustible.
I see no reason why it would not diesel in a powerful spring airgun.
I personally would be very hesitant to use it as a chamber lubricant.
At 30 years of age, the #2347 piston head buffer is probably crumbling.
If not replaced, pieces of the buffer may eventually jam the piston in the cylinder and make for very difficult disassemby.
The BSA Meteor is very easy to service if the proper sequence is followed.
I suggest that you take the gun apart yourself.
Shipping registered guns across the border for service is a PITA.
The cost for parts and service from jgairguns may be an unpleasant surprise.
BSA Meteor Mark III Parts
The #16-2195 O-Ring may not need replacing if the gun has not been heavily used.
JG Airguns price is 4.00 USD.
The #16-2347 Buffer Washer for the floating piston head fails with age and will need to be replaced.
The JG Airguns price is 7.00 USD.
A suitably sized nylon or delrin washer is a good inexpensive substitute.
The breech seal #16-1050 is the same crappy plastic as the buffer.
A new one from JG Airguns is 7.00 USD.
The Weihrauch breech seal will fit and is better material.
The Fanta synthetic seal for BSF/Wischo 55/60/70 rifles also fits and is also better material.
The Meteor piston design results in a lot of metal to metal contact with the cylinder and a lubricant with a high moly content is recommended.
JG Airguns price is 4.00 USD.
The #16-2347 Buffer Washer for the floating piston head fails with age and will need to be replaced.
The JG Airguns price is 7.00 USD.
A suitably sized nylon or delrin washer is a good inexpensive substitute.
The breech seal #16-1050 is the same crappy plastic as the buffer.
A new one from JG Airguns is 7.00 USD.
The Weihrauch breech seal will fit and is better material.
The Fanta synthetic seal for BSF/Wischo 55/60/70 rifles also fits and is also better material.
The Meteor piston design results in a lot of metal to metal contact with the cylinder and a lubricant with a high moly content is recommended.
RossB, your help goes above and beyond the call of duty.
I had already obtained quoted from DL Airguns for the followings, according to your earlier information about what I should need:
CDN$
2347 buffer washer ...$6.50
1050 breech seal.........$6.50
1035 mainspring..........$34.00 ( just in case)
Thank you for research on parts prices and quality.
The more I think about it, the more I intend to perform my own maintenance.
I am currently doing much reading on opening an airgun in order to avoid parts flying all over in the kitchen when I remove that innocent looking piece...
This web site already provided me with a fair amount of pictures on disassembled gun.
Thank you all again for your help in my quest...
javascript:emoticon(':D')
I had already obtained quoted from DL Airguns for the followings, according to your earlier information about what I should need:
CDN$
2347 buffer washer ...$6.50
1050 breech seal.........$6.50
1035 mainspring..........$34.00 ( just in case)
Thank you for research on parts prices and quality.
The more I think about it, the more I intend to perform my own maintenance.
I am currently doing much reading on opening an airgun in order to avoid parts flying all over in the kitchen when I remove that innocent looking piece...
This web site already provided me with a fair amount of pictures on disassembled gun.
Thank you all again for your help in my quest...
javascript:emoticon(':D')
Meteor Disassembly
Since you are going to do your own disassembly:
-After the Spring Guide is pushed forward and the #1023 Pin pushed out, the Spring Guide and Mainspring can be removed.
-Before removing the Piston, the Trigger WorK Pin #1021 must be removed so that the Sear can be swung out of the Cylinder.
-Attempts to futher disassemble the trigger mechanisnm usually result in a broken Trigger Sear Spring.
-$34.00 is quite expensive for a .122 wire 34.5 coil .500 ID mainspring.
-A $25.00 Diana 27 .110 wire 39 coil .509 ID mainspring works well.
-42 coils of a $1.14 Princess Auto .105 wire .504 ID machine gun spring is the most cost effective mainspring replacement.
-A spring compressor is usually required to insert the very high K factor Bren gun recoil springs.
-After the Spring Guide is pushed forward and the #1023 Pin pushed out, the Spring Guide and Mainspring can be removed.
-Before removing the Piston, the Trigger WorK Pin #1021 must be removed so that the Sear can be swung out of the Cylinder.
-Attempts to futher disassemble the trigger mechanisnm usually result in a broken Trigger Sear Spring.
-$34.00 is quite expensive for a .122 wire 34.5 coil .500 ID mainspring.
-A $25.00 Diana 27 .110 wire 39 coil .509 ID mainspring works well.
-42 coils of a $1.14 Princess Auto .105 wire .504 ID machine gun spring is the most cost effective mainspring replacement.
-A spring compressor is usually required to insert the very high K factor Bren gun recoil springs.