Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
I am new here. I have searched here for an answer with no luck so I will try posting. This rifle is advertised as having a two stage trigger. To me that means a first stage take up and a second stage which is 4-6 pounds. Well, this trigger has no discernable second stage! It has a long pull and a surprising release with no extra weight. I am pleased with the rifle otherwise. The trigger does have an adjustment. I turned the adjusting screw all the way in (clockwise) and there may be a hint of a second stage. Trigger pull weight is little.....possibly in ounces...and it is surprising when the rifle fires. Can anyone suggest a fix? To me the trigger does not look easy to work on. Are there aftermarket replacements? Are there repair specialists who can work on these? Thanks, David
- paddyfritz
- Posts: 3455
- Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:23 pm
- Location: Northern Ontario
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
Check with Flying Dragon in the USA. They may rework triggers for those. You may also be able to fit a Diana 34 trigger as the Ruger is a clone but I cant say that for sure.
Other than that, the usual trigger polishing and smoothing is all I am aware of.
Other than that, the usual trigger polishing and smoothing is all I am aware of.
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants." - Thomas Jefferson.
- Dukemeister
- Posts: 4367
- Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
- Location: Kingston, ON
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
The trigger is a clone of the Diana T05 trigger. It is a simulated 2 stage trigger with no adjustment on the first stage and a screw adjustment for the second stage. It can be modified to give better performance - you should search online for T05 trigger mods. I don't remember if I moded mine or not but it has a very nice 2 stage feel to it.
But before you go modding, first try some more adjustment of the screw; you may find that it's very sensitive so go 1/8 of a turn at a time.
But before you go modding, first try some more adjustment of the screw; you may find that it's very sensitive so go 1/8 of a turn at a time.
))))----//----------==
Iacio, ergo sum
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
Thanks for the replies Paddy and Duke. I will check the internet for the trigger you mention. I was advised to turn the screw all the way in, which I did. The only difference I noticed was that instead of being a very long pull before it fired it became shorter. It still acts strangely to me. Two stage triggers are usually all found on WW1 or WW2 rifles and this does not act like those. I had hoped I might find someone close by who had experience in adjusting these. David
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
Hi David
I've tried to search for it to no avail, but there is a post describing how to modify a T-05 into a very nice and crisp two stage.
I've done it to all my T-05's, plus I've disassembled them all and polished the innards.
The simple fix is to take the action out of the stock and remove the trigger blade itself which is held by a metal dowel. There is a spring to hold the trigger forward when the gun isn't cocked, and you can either discard it or replace it with something weaker during re-assembly. Grab the spring with needle nose pliers before you remove the trigger, or it will escape.
Once the trigger blade is removed, you will discover that there is a "Peened pin" going across the gap between the two sides of the trigger and that the factory "adjustment" screw is (a) sharply pointed and (b) too short to really do anything.
With a Dremel, cut and remove the "peened pin".
Drill and tap for a M3-05 bolt to go through the bottom of the trigger, emerging directly below where the "peened pin" used to be so now the "pin" location is replaced by the bolt and adjustable by turning the bolt in or out. If you can't access an M3-05 bolt, a 1/8" x 32 can be used.
Take out the original "adjustment" screw and tap the hole remaining for an M3-05 bolt and insert the bolt. You now have two adjustment screws and you'll have to cut them off to an appropriate length and with a Dremel, cut a slot in the part that sticks down in front of the trigger. Also you need to smooth the ends that engage with the trigger sear.
The farther forward bolt controls when the first stage begins and the farther aft bolt controls when the second stage begins.
Now it's a balancing act between the two bolts. If the forward one is too far in it may eliminate the 2nd stage all together. If it's too far out, it won't be involved and the 2nd stage bolt will fire the gun. Adjust them so that you feel the first bolt engage as you begin to pull the trigger, and when the 2nd bolt engages, the gun is ready to fire.
I know this may sound confusing, but when you take the trigger out (it's ok, the rest of the trigger assembly will stay put) I think/hope it will make sense.
Peter
I've tried to search for it to no avail, but there is a post describing how to modify a T-05 into a very nice and crisp two stage.
I've done it to all my T-05's, plus I've disassembled them all and polished the innards.
The simple fix is to take the action out of the stock and remove the trigger blade itself which is held by a metal dowel. There is a spring to hold the trigger forward when the gun isn't cocked, and you can either discard it or replace it with something weaker during re-assembly. Grab the spring with needle nose pliers before you remove the trigger, or it will escape.
Once the trigger blade is removed, you will discover that there is a "Peened pin" going across the gap between the two sides of the trigger and that the factory "adjustment" screw is (a) sharply pointed and (b) too short to really do anything.
With a Dremel, cut and remove the "peened pin".
Drill and tap for a M3-05 bolt to go through the bottom of the trigger, emerging directly below where the "peened pin" used to be so now the "pin" location is replaced by the bolt and adjustable by turning the bolt in or out. If you can't access an M3-05 bolt, a 1/8" x 32 can be used.
Take out the original "adjustment" screw and tap the hole remaining for an M3-05 bolt and insert the bolt. You now have two adjustment screws and you'll have to cut them off to an appropriate length and with a Dremel, cut a slot in the part that sticks down in front of the trigger. Also you need to smooth the ends that engage with the trigger sear.
The farther forward bolt controls when the first stage begins and the farther aft bolt controls when the second stage begins.
Now it's a balancing act between the two bolts. If the forward one is too far in it may eliminate the 2nd stage all together. If it's too far out, it won't be involved and the 2nd stage bolt will fire the gun. Adjust them so that you feel the first bolt engage as you begin to pull the trigger, and when the 2nd bolt engages, the gun is ready to fire.
I know this may sound confusing, but when you take the trigger out (it's ok, the rest of the trigger assembly will stay put) I think/hope it will make sense.
Peter
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
I forgot the safety aspect.
Keep a reasonably long first stage so that the trigger isn't "ready to fire" as soon as the gun is cocked. Do the "bump" test to see that a shock to the butt end won't result in premature discharge.
Peter
PS: An even simpler mod to the one I described above is to simply remove the factory adjustment screw and replace it with a longer one leaving the "peened pin in place.
Keep a reasonably long first stage so that the trigger isn't "ready to fire" as soon as the gun is cocked. Do the "bump" test to see that a shock to the butt end won't result in premature discharge.
Peter
PS: An even simpler mod to the one I described above is to simply remove the factory adjustment screw and replace it with a longer one leaving the "peened pin in place.
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
Thanks Peter. I will not attempt the first option. Too complicated for the old guy. I may try the longer screw. Thanks everyone for youe help. Dave
Re: Ruger Air Hawk....trigger problem?
I should add a "post script" here. I did look at the trigger and decided it was all too much for me to attempt. I do wish I could find an expert in Eastern Ontario who could help me. If anyone knows such a person please advise me. Regards, David